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Sophie Johnston is the Sommelier for the State Buildings in Perth/Boorloo.
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FUND ISSUE 2
Three Reccys: Wines to Enjoy
Sophie Johnston
Sophie Johnston
Quinta da Pedra Alta 'Pedra a Pedra' Branco 2022, Douro Valley, Portugal
This wine is my kind of wine. It's the most refreshing thing I can think to consume at the end of a long shift when I'm at my most dehydrated (both physically and mentally). It's a big citrus bomb of wine - loads of fresh lemon, grapefruit pith and finger lime - and that high acid is exactly the thing to rehydrate your palate. But it's not some thin and wispy white that you'll forget about as soon as your glass is empty. There's a lot of beautiful chalky texture on the palate, a bit of crushed sage and crunchy fennel to bring herbaceous interest. It's borderline vermouth-y in that respect. Table wine from Portugal is unusual to see here in Perth so it has that added bonus of being a little elusive and cool. A blend of two indigenous white grapes Rabigato and Gouveio that do their job just magnificently.
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2022, Piemonte, Italy
The running theme through my taste in wine is acid. Always high acid and Nebbiolo has it in spades. I tend to go for Langhe Nebb because I can afford it and because it's made to be opened up and enjoyed early. Barbaresco and Barolos can live forever in your cellar, we need something to drink now! Produttori del Barbaresco is a co-operative of 50 families in the region and their collective vines cover over 100 hectares. They are mostly known for the nine single vineyard expressions under the Barbaresco DOCG classification. The trick is, the fruit that goes into this wine still comes from those highly regarded sites - a 'baby Barbaresco', if you will. The vines are generally younger and maybe lower down on the slope but no less cared for and adored. Inside the bottle the wine is pretty and lifted with dark cherry, tart plum skins, roses and dying flowers, the sweetness of a ripe strawberry is matched with dark licorice depth. There's a slight grip of tannin without the big boy toughness that Nebbiolo can bring and a long line of acid that I'm looking for.
Corymbia Cabernet Franc 2023, Margaret River, Australia
I had to include a local hero and none is more deserving. Rob and Genevieve Mann understand what it is to make wine in WA. They have vineyards in Margs and the Swan Valley and they make wine all over Great Southern as well. Ordinarily, the Cabernet Franc they grow will be blended with its more famous son, Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2023 vintage was just right for Cab Franc so they decided to produce this stunning single variety bottling. Ripe red fruits dominate but there's a sneaky, savoury undertone that keeps things serious and grounded. Ripe raspberry, pomegranate, blood orange rind, toasted nuts and toasted seaweed snacks. That salty, umami note is the thing that piques my curiosity and keeps me coming back for another look and there's a peppercorn spice that lingers just long enough. Super elegant, an excellent example of what Cab Franc can be and what WA can do so well. It's sold out online, but we have heaps of stock at Wine Merchant...